Affordable Equipment
August 2009

    Bowling is one of the few sports in which the perception is the equipment should last forever. If you have aspirations of continued enjoyment during your league competition, this is simply untrue.

    Let’s face it, lots of people say they don’t care about their score and they are only bowling a league for the friendship or the beer. While this may initially be the case, not many people will continue to do something in which the never see any improvement. So keeping your equipment up-to-date is vital to your mental well being, as well as your physical game.

    Bowling Solutions offers a ball/bag/shoe package for the beginner bowler for only $119.95 (plastic ball), or $159.95 for an entry level reactive ball. These packages come with a choice of colors, weights and sizes. We strive to have something for everyone. There simply isn’t a reason in the world why you shouldn’t have a ball to fit your hand, a pair of shoes that only your feet go into, and a bag to carry them both.

    Ala Carte bowling balls range in price, in our stores, from $45 - $175, undrilled. Drilling depends on the type of ball and ranges from $25 - $50. We carry a wide variety of colors and weights for the beginner bowler to the very competitive bowler and everything in between.

    Shoes start around $37 and go up. Be sure to check out our large selection of close-out shoes, some at only $10. Why would anyone rent shoes at these prices????

    Bags come in all shapes, sizes and colors as well. Single bags start around $20. Of course we carry single rollers, double totes, double rollers, triple totes, triple rollers and 4 ball rollers. Everything is in stock. No need to order anything.

    As league season is gearing up, don’t forget to get your ball resurfaced, revived and your grips replaced. Grips do wear out !!!!!

Care of Bowling Balls
June 2009

    Don't store your ball in extremely hot or cold places. Leaving balls in the car or trunk during hot summer hours, as well as extreme cold winters, can lead to cracking and core separations. These types of damage are not covered by the manufacturers warranty.

    Reactive Resin and Particle Resin Balls, usually referred to as high performance balls, absorb oil. The more oil a ball absorbs, the more the ball is going to hook. The oil that your ball is absorbing also contains dust and dirt. This “grime” will clog the pores on the ball's surface and impair the ball's ability to absorb oil effectively.

    While you are bowling, you should wipe your ball in between shots. This will remove some of the excess oil, dirt and grime that your ball has picked up from the lane and by going thru the ball return machine. This will help maximize performance by keeping the pores from being blocked by dirt and limit the amount of oil that can be absorbed into the coverstock. At the end of your three game league night, your ball should be cleaned with a cleaner designed specifically for this purpose. Each of our stores has a cleaner in stock for your convenience. This simple process will help reduce the amount of oil that is absorbed into the ball, thus increasing the life of the ball.

    The following items are NOT considered to be effective cleaners on your bowling balls.

    Alcohol & Windex: These 2 items will not effectively penetrate oil and dirt. They tend to lay on top of oil and dirt and, when wiped with a towel, smear along the ball's surface leaving behind residue that is absorbed into the surface pores.

    Acetone/Denatured Alcohol/Lacquer Thinner: Acetone and denatured alcohol are strong solvents. Prolonged contact with the ball's surface can weaken the structure of the coverstock, affecting long term durability. Petroleum based cleaners, such as lacquer, paint thinners and mineral spirits, have limited solubility attributes. They are not extremely aggressive in breaking down lane oil.

    By visiting one of our store locations, our staff can also tell you whether your ball may benefit from either a Resurface or utilization of the Revivor, a method to safely remove oil from your bowling ball

Altering The Bowling Ball Surface During League or Tournament Competition
Dec 2008

    We are often asked about specific rules involving tournament or league competition. As these events are governed by the USBC, we always quote the rule book. Recently we have had several inquiries about altering the surface of the bowling balls. Here is an excerpt directly from the USBC rule book.

    All Bowling Solutions stores have Remove All Ball Cleaner available, which is an approved USBC product. A member of our team will be more than happy to discuss available options to you for your equipment.

Altering the surface of a bowling ball by the use of abrasives while bowling in USBC competition is prohibited. All bowling balls so altered must be removed from the competition. (See Chapter 7, Section 2, for additional information.)

NOTE: If it is shown the bowler had prior knowledge his/her actions were in violation of Rule 18, the game(s) in which the violation occurred is (are) subject to forfeiture. In addition, the bowler is subject to dismissal from the league and suspension of membership.

Competition is defined as the remainder of the current game and remaining game(s) in the series being bowled.

The use of approved cleaning agents such as isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and polishing machines is permissible.

Commonly Asked Questions – Rule 18

   18/1: When can an acceptable cleaner be used on a bowling ball?
Unless otherwise provided by league or tournament rule, cleaners designated as acceptable by USBC standards can be used on bowling balls at any time during USBC competition. For a complete list of acceptable cleaning agents, see bowl.com.

   18/2: Can abrasives be used during certified competition?
The outer surface of any bowling ball cannot be altered with an abrasive after the start of competition. This includes balls that have not yet been introduced into play. Further, the start of competition is defined as the point the first ball is thrown by any participant for score. This would allow a bowler to alter the outer surface of a ball during practice and not be in violation of Rule 18.

   18/3: A tournament consists of doubles and singles events. The singles event is bowled first immediately followed by the doubles. Can I sand my bowling ball between events?
No, Rule 18 does not allow the outer surface of any bowling ball to be altered with an abrasive after the start of competition. This includes balls that have not yet been introduced into play. The start of competition is defined as the point the first ball is thrown by any participant for score. Since the tournament is conducting singles and doubles concurrently, you cannot alter the surface of the bowling ball (including sanding) between events.

   18/4: Can a bowler use an abrasive on just the track or just a portion of the track of the ball?
No. USBC specifications require that the entire surface of the ball be sanded in a uniform manner. Sanding a ball in any other manner would be a violation of Rule 17a, Item 1. The penalty for a violation of this rule can include disqualification, forfeiture, removal from the league, and/or suspension of USBC membership.

Surface Preparation
July 2008
by Gaylon Spears

    Surface preparation for bowling balls is a frequently misunderstood aspect of bowling. The variations available are countless. The different grits of sandpapers, abralon pads, and polishes that are available, give the bowler and Pro Shop operator a wide spectrum of potential ball reactions. Combining these applications makes those choices even broader.

    Most bowlers believe, as do some pro shop operators, that the surface of the bowling ball, as it comes from the factory, brand new out of the box, is how the ball is intended to be utilized. Although true in some cases, this is certainly not a rule engraved in stone. Generally speaking, the surface of the ball from the factory is based on a combination of a couple of things. One is shelf appeal where the ball fits into the company’s current available arsenal. In other words, what the manufacturer thinks makes the ball most eye appealing when the ball is displayed and the other what other balls are currently in their line. However there is a difference between a polished and a shined ball. A shined ball can in effect have a variance of different sanding grits on the surface of the ball and then have a light gloss to give the ball a light shine whereas a polished ball had the surfaced altered to an even smoother surface.

    If you were to take a microscopic look at ball surfaces, it basically amounts to the lower the grit number of the sanding apparatus, the higher the hills and the lower the valleys on the ball surface. This works the same as the tread on the tires of a car. For example, with race cars, dirt track cars require more tread to get around the track than do super speedway cars, which require no tread for traction. These work well until the surface of the track is changed or altered. The super speedway cars cannot get the grip required when they are on a wet track and it will cause the car to lose traction, and the dirt track cars can’t generate enough grip to go fast on the asphalt. In drag racing, they use the same theory as the super speedway cars except that they use a softer tire to get even more grip. All of this applies to our game of bowling.

    A polished ball in essence has lower hills and higher valleys to allow the ball to get a bigger “footprint” on the lane so that it can grip the lane better in the dry area and have a more angular reaction in the back ends. The oil allows the ball to skid thru it and also allows the ball to maintain its turn rate, to give it a snappy reaction when it gets to the dry part of the lane. A more sanded ball will actually try to grip the lane, even in the oil, because of this tread, its reaction will appear to be more of an arc because this causes the ball to bleed off the rate of turn on the ball.

    The bowling balls also have a few built in factors with the coverstock itself. The solid balls tend to pick up sooner on the lane than their pearlized counterpart. This is true regardless to whether the ball is a urethane or a reactive coverstock.

    The particle coverstock tends to bend the rules because these covers have small particles of various materials that require that you keep a fresh surface on the ball. By fresh surface I mean to keep it maintained so that the top of the “hills” are sharp and can track thru the oil. When they become dull or rounded they can’t grip the lane and track thru the oil as well so you have to keep the particles sharp.. These balls tend to be less angular in their reaction. This assessment is based on the balls themselves and not in combination with the bowler. In the right hands and conditions a plastic ball can hook a lot. Keeping the surface of your ball fresh may be accomplished by having your ball resurfaced or energized with the Revivor equipment available in our stores.

    It takes an experienced ball technician to understand all the variables involved to get the correct surface on a ball. He must have an understanding of the oil pattern you are bowling on and even better understanding of how you bowl. He should take all these variances into consideration and recommend the type of ball and surface required to help you score better. A combination of correct surface and correct ball for a particular bowler will allow the ball to get to the pocket in the moment after it has reached its maximum rev rate. This will cause the ball to drive thru the pins as if they weren’t there.

    As complicated as this sounds, it doesn’t require the alignment of the planets and the moon being in the seventh house of Jupiter. Sometimes getting the surface correct is just a simple migration one way or the other with different grits or polishes. It is simply tweaking with more or less surface on the ball to find that magic reaction for the bowler. Maybe the ball was “laboring” with 1000 grit surface, but then take it to 2000, BINGO!! Strike Heaven!

    There are many things that have to be considered when a ball is being set up and drilled for a bowler. The span, the layout, the type of ball, the lane conditions and the type of bowler are a few of them, but a ball is never complete until the surface is properly matched with all of those factors involved.

Choosing the Right Ball
June 2008


Two of the most frequent things a customer will ask when coming into one of our stores are:
    1. What is the hottest or best selling ball?
    2. Can they buy the ball that was seen on the PBA TV Show?


  All bowlers need to understand that a ball that works well for one person, may not necessarily work for another. Many factors come into play.

  There are literally hundreds of bowling balls available on the market at any given time. This can be overwhelming and confusing when trying to choose a bowling ball. The key to choosing the right ball is to understand the differences between bowling balls and what you are trying to achieve with your new bowling ball purchase. In most cases, this will be too technical for the average person, which is where our staff can make suggestions.

Here are a few quick basics on the construction of a bowling ball:

  A bowling ball is primarily composed of two major parts: the Coverstock and the Weight Block.

  The Coverstock is the outer shell of the bowling ball. It is the part of the ball that you see. It is also the most influential element of the ball when it comes to hook potential because it is the part of the ball that is actually making contact with the lane surface.

  Bowling balls are made of four main different types of Coverstocks—Plastic, Urethane, Reactive Resin, and Particle (Proactive). The difference between these coverstock materials is how they perform and react on the lane surface. When a ball is rolled down the lane, friction is created from the contact between the coverstock and the lane surface. The more friction created from this contact usually means more hook potential. How much friction is created will vary depending on the ball’s coverstock type.

   •Plastic– This coverstock is a very smooth surface and offers the least friction and therefore has the least hook potential available. This type of ball is good for beginners who desire their own ball with a proper fit. Intermediate and advanced bowlers also use this type of ball for spares, as it has a very predictable reaction.

   •Urethane– This coverstock is more durable than plastic and offers more friction between the ball and the lane surface. Therefore, urethane has a higher hook potential than plastic. Due to the increased friction on the lane, urethane tends to deflect less which results in better pin action. This type of ball is utilized as a “next step up” from a plastic for beginners that are eager to improve their game.

   •Reactive Resin– This coverstock is actually less durable than plastic or urethane, but offers much more friction, hook potential, and pin action. Due to the much higher friction they create, reactive resin balls tend to be more sensitive to lane conditions, and also operator error. This type of ball is designed for the intermediate or advanced bowler who desires more hook and an “arsenal” of potential lane reactions.

   •Particle (Proactive)- This coverstock is a snow tire with chains! The surface of this coverstock has a “bumpy” feel to it allowing the ball to dig into the lane surface creating the most friction available on heavily oiled lanes. This type of ball is a must for the intermediate and advanced bowler’s arsenal.

The Weight Block of a bowling ball is found inside the ball beneath the coverstock (shell). There are two main types of weight blocks— High Mass and Low Mass.

A High Mass weight block is usually a pancake shaped weight block that is usually placed close to the shell of the ball (see picture). This type of weight block promotes a lot of length down the lane as it does not tend to allow the ball to get into a heavy roll.

A Low Mass weight block can be a variety of shapes and densities and is usually placed more towards the center or middle of the ball (see picture). This allows for a heavier roll which helps increase hook potential.

  As you can see, there is a lot of technology that goes into today’s bowling balls! And we have only scratched the surface with these brief explanations! Our trained staff will evaluate your game and what you are looking for in a new ball before making any suggestions. In most cases, don’t be surprised if we ask you to “shoe-up”, so we can see how you roll the ball. It is crucial to properly making the right recommendation. Remember, it is ultimately your decision.

Youth Bowlers & Peer Pressure
April 2008


  As a coach, we sometimes apply pressure when we don’t need to. It works best if we take a step back and let the students come to us. The peer pressure that is applied by parents, friends and now coaches, cause a variety of problems, which the students sometimes can’t handle. This may lead to crying and at some point could cause our students to give up and quit. The signs are simple. All we have to do is be able to recognize them as they happen. Here are some examples:

A. Crying or sobbing.

B. Freaking out.

C. Screaming at parents and or fellow teammates.

D. Shutting coaches out.

  Each bowler in our junior programs deserves our respect. In turn, we will gain their respect. No bowler should ever be put on the spot in front of other bowlers. No one wins when you get in a shouting contest.

  What coaches should do is to promote the game of ten pins. This will work if we follow some simple rules. They are:

A. Have a vision of a champion.

B. It doesn’t matter who leads, but that we all get there together.

C. Be objective on feedback.

D. Promote that you must have fun doing what you love doing.

E. Let the leader step forward. Picking a leader creates peer pressure.

The greatest coach of all sports gave his secret to all of us. Its quite simple! “One sees clearly only with the heart. Anything essential is invisible to the eyes.”

From 0 to 60 Feet (written by Hal Lominick)
March 2008


There are 3 sections of a bowling lane:
1. Heads – 0 – 20 feet
2. Mid-Lane – 20 – 40 feet
3. Back ends – 40 – 60 feet


A. Heads
  Start with reading your ball in the heads (the section of lane from the foul line to 20 feet). Throw 2 shots and determine how long your ball skids before it picks up a roll. If your ball goes too long (i.e., misses the pocket to the right) you can either move to the right with your feet and search out more friction or slow your speed down or change to a stronger ball (usually a duller surface).

B. Mid-Lane
  Throw a couple more shots and watch for mid-lane pick up (seeing the ball revving in the mid-lane). This is where ball layouts and types of cores become more important. If you see the ball wiggling and NOT picking up in the mid-lane, you may need to go to a stronger layout or maybe a lower RG, asymmetric core. The other thing that is a larger help in the mid lane if the ball continues to wiggle would be the use of weight holes.

C. Back-End
  Throw a few more shots where you can focus on the entry angle that your ball achieves. If the ball is still hooking when it enters the pocket, this means it is also skidding, which provides a very good chance to leave the “Ring 10”. Possible adjustments for this reaction would be either:

    1) slightly less shine
    2) slightly stronger ball
    3) slightly stronger layout.

  If the ball seems to stop hooking more than 5 – 10 feet in front of the pocket, this could mean the ball is out of energy. This reaction gives you a greater chance to leave the “Flat 10”. The adjustment for this reaction would be:

    1) slightly more shine
    2) slightly weaker ball
    3) slightly weaker layout.

  Ideal ball motion is achieved when the ball stops hooking right in front of the pocket. This means the ball is rolling, end over end, and achieving the highest rev rate possible.

** Making adjustments is an art of its own but making adjustments may be misplaced if you can’t read the lane conditions in the first place.

***Whether you are a beginner bowler or a high average pro, this tip should be helpful sometime when you need it the most.

Good luck & great bowling !!!!

Bowling Ball Maintenance (written by Gaylon Spears, General Manager Rock Hill location)
November 2007


  There are several aspects of bowling ball maintenance, but the most overlooked area is oil extraction from the coverstock. Some people have home remedies for attempting to remove the oil, but most all of these actions can be detrimental and cause extensive damage to the ball. Some people actually believe leaving the ball in the trunk during the summer, or putting it in the oven on low heat, or even believe it or not, the microwave. All of these methods are bad, bad, bad for the ball.

  There are several different rules of thought as to why these cause damage (sometimes not apparent to the naked eye) to the ball. A couple of these methods only allow half of the ball to be exposed directly to the heat and the other half remains cooler. Another is the balls are sitting on the same points of the ball and this causes variable surface tension on the ball as it heats up and another is the temperature isn’t accurately controlled. This can cause the coverstock and the core material both to heat up and due to the fact these are different materials they heat up at different rates and their expansion rates are different. When this happens these materials try to expand and more often than not the core will cause the coverstock to separate from it. When this happens the ball is no longer a solid entity, but in reality two. Not good when the ball hits the pocket and goes ping!! Instead of THUUUWAPPP!!! Also this causes micro fractures in the coverstock and eventually they will become the more evident cracks in the cover.

  Bowling Stores that are up to date on their technology will have a machine called the Rejuvenator or the Ball Revivor. This machine performs oil extractions under a highly controlled environment. First of all the temperature is thematically controlled and kept at a constant. The air is circulated by a blower and the ball isn’t exposed directly to the heat. This way the ball is being evenly heated to a calculated temperature. This piece of equipment also rotates the ball during the process so that it isn’t on the same points of the cover while it is being heated. This relieves the static surface tension on the ball. Also, these devices are operated on a timer so that the ball is exposed to the heat for a set period of time.

  Today’s bowling balls are highly technical pieces of equipment and they vary greatly from one ball type to another, not to mention manufacturer to the other. One of the reasons these balls tend to hook so much more now than in times past is because the coverstock of the balls are highly porous and this allows the balls to have a bigger “footprint” on the lanes. Due to their porosity, this allows the balls to absorb oil into the coverstock and eventually the cover of the ball becomes saturated with oil and it inhibits the resins in the coverstock to go to the surface. This is what happens when you see your ball getting sluggish and it doesn’t have the pop in the pocket or the snap when it reads the dry on the lane. When the ball is heated it becomes molecularly active and the oil becomes active. Also the other components of the ball become active. Due to the expansion of heated materials the oils and resins in the coverstock squeeze outwards to the surface of the ball. The resins aren’t as active as the oils because they require a higher temperature to be as similarly active, but they do migrated outwardly. Once the oil reaches the surface the Revivor wipes these oils from the surface and thus keeps them from being absorbed back into the ball when its environment is cooled. Once the ball is back at room temperature, the oil is gone and the ball once again has resins remaining at the surface and you once again have that like new, oil absorbing nugget that you once had.

  Several of the leading experts recommend that you have the oil removed every 40-60 games. The balls of today definitely require more maintenance and should be cleaned after each bowling session. However, the very best maintained balls still require oil extraction because the oils will be absorbed deep into the coverstocks. However the combination of regular cleanings and rejuvenation of the ball greatly extends the life of the bowling ball. Without any maintenance of the ball, the ball will hardly last 100 games. A well maintained ball will last well into 400 games or better. A clean ball means more hook and better roll into the pins. And of course don’t forget “Chicks dig the big Hook”

Practice, Practice, Practice (written by Ritchie Allen)
October 2007


  For those of you that feel you do enough of that but cant seem to get any better, here are 5 tips to shake up your practice routine and make you a little bit better, maybe even a lot.

  1. Many pros don’t keep score when we practice. We just practice repetition, make it feel the same over and over. Score is overrated in practice. It doesn’t matter how much you can score when they don’t count. They key is to make it feel the same so when you do bowl in competition its easier to repeat shots, and you get the added bonus of forgetting about your score.

  2. Practice at different houses. Just because you bowl good at your house, doesn’t mean you will bowl good at another. Different surfaces, approaches and settings can throw your game off tremendously.

  3. Try to practice at the bowling center right BEFORE they oil lanes. That’s when the lanes are at their worst! If you can bowl good when they are tough, you can bowl even better when the lanes are good.

  4. Use all your equipment when you practice. Or at least the ones that don’t feel as good. This way you can take them into your Bowling Solutions Store and get them adjusted to feel just like your favorite ball in your bag. Also, you get to see more of a difference in your equipment. Make sure you know exactly what every ball in your bag does. Some will even roll differently on different surfaces at different times. It’s key to know your equipment.

  5. Practice only what feels comfortable. As key as it is to know your equipment, it’s even more important to know yourself, your game, your comfort level and what you are capable of without going outside your natural physical game.

Choosing a New Ball For the Medium to Advanced Bowlers
September 2007


  Several issues come into play when choosing a new bowling ball and drilling technique. Allowing a skilled Professional to help you make these decisions is critical. Make sure the person about to layout and drill your new purchase has acquired adequate information from you. More often than not, they should ask to see a ball you are currently using. This should allow them to determine your axis point. If time permits and lanes are available, don't be surprised if they ask to see you roll a few balls. They should inquire as to what you are looking for a ball to accomplish. Do you want it to hook or go straight? What type of lane conditions are you bowling on? What other types of balls do you own and use?

   Owing bowling balls are like golf clubs. Each one has a specific purpose and lane-condition range. Today's core and coverstock combinations are the best the industry has ever produced-and it just keeps getting better. Things that worked 10 years ago just don't work any longer.

   The core is the engine of the ball. There are two basic engines today, the symmetrical core and the asymmetrical core. Both have a purpose and are very useful on certain lane conditions and player styles. The symmetrical core is the most controllable and predictable of the engines. They tend to have a very long transition from skid to hook to roll and can be modified with layouts to enhance their overall motion. The asymmetrical core is more like a NASCAR engine. It is designed to react stronger when it encounters lane friction. The stronger preferred spin axis (mass bias) created by the core shape is what creates the additional imbalance, which causes the ball to rev up faster. Again both cores have their advantages and disadvantages and both should be used in creating your arsenal.

   The coverstock is the tire, helping a ball lose ball speed in the skid zone of the ball's path and on the part of the lane where the highest concentration of oil is located. In studying the current manufacturer's marketing, there are two types of reactive shells. First, the mid-lane reactive coverstock tends to lose ball speed sooner and is a bit more controllable on the backend. The second type is the very skid/whip coverstock, which retains ball speed longer and tends to react sharply on the backend of the pattern. All the ball companies have their own versions of each of these shells. There is also the particle coverstock, which seems to have taken a back seat in the last 18months. As reactive shells got more aggressive the balls today have less particle load than five years ago. Nevertheless, particle shells are great tools, because they create more friction and a smoother breakpoint than reactive. It can help those players who are speed dominant or on synthetic wet-dry lane conditions.

   After the ball is selected, the amount of overall ball motion is created by the layout technique. As indicated by the USBC ball motion study, cores have gotten stronger, using more track flare, larger separation between flare rings, lower RGs and higher intermediate differentials, meaning layout has become even more critical to achieve optimum ball motion. The pin distance from the PAP is used to control the flare of the drilled ball. The mass bias distance will change when the ball reaches its maximum revving position. Finally, the pi distance from the VAL can increase or decrease the drilled balls and intermediate differential by as much as 40 percent. These differences can greatly change the length of the ball's transition and the overall motion characteristics. So you see, it is way more complicated than simply fitting your hand and drilling three holes in the ball.

   Surface preparation has also become a real art for competitive bowlers. The player's ability to manage surfaces has a great deal to do with success or failure in the modern bowling environment because surface texture is the key to controlling where and when the ball loses speed. The most versatile and usable surfaces today are smooth, ranging from 800 wet sanded to 4000 wet sanded. You can also throw in a grey and white scotch brite pad. Because of harder land surfaces and slicker land conditioners, we no longer want to use polished surfaces at the backbone of our arsenals.

Tournament Checklist    January 2007


  Many of our customers are gearing up for some local, state & national tournaments. This is awesome, but preparation is necessary.

Before you go:

      1. Choose your arsenal. Select the bowling balls you are going to take. Talk to other bowlers who have already bowled in the tournament or are familiar with the lane conditions. Sometimes this may help you determine which balls will work best for you. Be aware of the tournament rules. Some tournaments limit the number of balls you may have in the building at one time.

      2. Check your equipment. Look for chips and cracks on the surface of each ball. Replace worn finger grips and/or slugs. Do any of your balls need to be resurfaced?

      3. Prepare your accessory bag. Make sure you bring a rosin bag, clean towel, plenty of tape, hand conditioner, skin patch, super glue and a wire brush. An extra pair of shoes is not a bad idea either.


Once you are there:

      1. Arrive early to watch the squad bowling ahead of you.

      2. Pay attention to what is happening on the lanes. Are most bowlers using shiny or dull equipment. Are the majority of people playing an inside or outside shot? If other bowlers are starting to miss right or left, the lane condition may be changing slightly. Be alert and be prepared to make adjustments in where you normally stand or in the ball you are using.

      3. Don’t get caught up in the negative comments of others. Remember it is a tournament, these people do NOT want you to finish ahead of them. A positive mental attitude is as important as making good shots.

      4. Relax and have fun. It will much more difficult to make a good shot if you are nervous, worried or concerned. To decrease tension, take a deep breath and exhale before each shot.

      5. Get back to basics. Tournaments are exciting and in such an atmosphere, bowlers have a tendency to get overanxious and forget about fundamentals. Focus on the basics to ensure your best performance.

Playing Your Line     December 2006


  Getting lined up and staying lined up are two different tasks. Getting lined up refers to finding the initial combination of starting position, target, release and ball selection to maximize your scoring potential. Staying lined up refers to adjustments you can make as lane conditions change during a session (3 games).

  We hear people talking about “Playing Their Line”, all the time. It would be magical if you could determine a place to play on the lane, never move your feet or your target for three games, and to play the exact same place in every bowling center you visit. This is absolutely impossible and anyone that believes it to be true will never improve their game. Recently we even heard someone state that their bowling ball was able to “adjust to their line”. Bowling balls are unable to think on their own, so this statement is just plain wishful thinking.

  Getting lined up can be a challenging process. Each session, no matter how routine, must be approached with an open mind and a curiosity about the lane condition. Do not limit yourself by determining where you are going to stand and which ball you are going to use.

  Begin your practice by rolling your favorite ball on your favorite part of the lane. Watch the ball reaction carefully to see where it begins to curve and how much. Using this "benchmark" will help you determine what changes, if any, are needed.

  The bowlers Golden Rule is to move in the direction of the miss, while keeping the same target on the lane. The concept of this adjustment is based on the use of a pivot, with the pivot being the target on the lane. If the ball misses to the left of the intended pin(s), move left on the approach. If the ball misses to the right of the intended pin(s), move right on the approach.

  It is sometimes difficult to watch where other people are playing with success, unless you know for certain this other person is using a similar style to your own. Many factors such as ball speed, the type of ball and the way the ball is drilled must be taken into consideration when attempting to mimic someone else.

  If the lanes are oily, plan to use a straighter line to the pocket. Trying to force the ball to curve more will lead to accuracy problems. If the lanes are hooking, you may need to use a softer release or less aggressive equipment. Sometimes moving to a different part of the lane will help you find the amount of oil that will be a better match to the ball selection and release you prefer. Generally the outside of the lane will be drier and the inside will have more oil.

Finger Grips     November 2006
 What are they and why use them?

  Fingertip grips are soft plastic “tubes” which are glued into the finger holes of those who use the fingertip release. Grips, which are softer than the material that makes up a bowling ball, “give” or offer more resistance at the point of release. It is this split-second resistance that will give some bowlers the added lift that increases revolutions and may provide improved pin-action.

  Fingertip grips are constructed predominantly of vinyl or silicone, which are either molded or extruded into the various shapes and configurations. In addition to size and color, grips come in a variety of shapes, and hardness, which can yield dramatically different results. Popular shapes are oval style grips, pitched grips and round grips. Hardness ratings vary from soft to firm.

  Consistency is certainly a major key to performance. As each ball is constructed of different materials, the texture, tackiness and the resistance varies from ball to ball. Finger grips and thumb slugs (inserts) help provide the bowler with a consistent feel from ball to ball, thus promoting a more consistent release.

Maintenance of finger grips

  You would not go a whole year, or longer, without changing the oil in your vehicle and still expect the engine to run smoothly. You also cannot expect to perform your best on the lanes with old finger grips in your bowling ball. After 3 – 4 months, or 60 – 80 games, the fit and texture of your finger inserts will change. The soft vinyl material will wear with frequency of use, similar to the tread on a tire or the sole of a shoe. Excess wear enlarges the size of the finger insert, altering the fit and span of the grip. Proper fit and span are among the most crucial elements of ensuring a strong sense of confidence and performance on the lanes. In addition to wear, finger inserts are also exposed to various substances, like rosin, hand conditioners and lane oils, which alter the feel and texture of the insert, which ultimately will affect your release. If you want to maximize your performance on the lanes and keep you ball in optimal striking condition, it is important to properly maintain your equipment.

Choosing Your Shoes     October 2006

  Bowling shoes are the most ignored and overlooked piece of bowling equipment. Many bowlers just don’t realize the importance of a good quality and comfortably fitting bowling shoe.

  Bowling shoes are made with a “sliding” sole that allows bowlers to slide with their sliding foot during the last step of their approach. This sole is generally made of leather or a synthetic-type leather. A proper and consistent slide is very important in the execution of a good bowling shot.

  The athletic or tennis shoe style bowling shoe is made with a “sliding sole” on both shoes, to accommodate left or right handed bowlers. These are considered to be entry level shoes and considered an excellent choice for beginners or for bowlers who bowl once a week or less.

  The competitive style shoe has a “sliding sole” on one of the shoes, depending on whether you are right or left handed. The other shoe for “push off” foot has rubber on it to assist the bowler in a strong and stable “push off” into the slide. This type of shoe is recommended for bowlers that want to improve their game and for bowlers who bowl more than once a week. These shoes are normally quite soft and require no stretching or “wearing in”. This shoe bends quite easily and demonstrates a weak or flexible sole. Soft fabric is used in the sides and top of the shoe.

  Bowling shoes have come a long way, just like bowling balls. The technology in bowling shoes has created another valuable tool for the bowler to use in their quest to improve their game. The competitive style shoes are sold with replacement heels & soles for the sliding foot to allow a bowler to adjust their slide distance by changing the slide sole and or the heel pad on the sliding foot. Therefore, if a bowler is having problems with their slide on a certain approach condition, this shoe will allow the bowler the ability to conquer that issue. These shoes are normally all leather which makes them strong and durable. They are designed to be worn on a regular basis, several times per week. These shoes definitely provide more support at the foul line due to the broader base and firmer fit around the ankle.

  Bowling shoes do wear out. The life expectancy of bowling shoes strictly depends on the number of days per week you bowl and your specific wear patterns. Shoes purchased from our shop come with a limited warranty, which we will honor directly through the distributor & manufacturer. Please be sure to keep your receipt for any warranty issues.

Sportsmanship and Lane Etiquette    March 2006

  Two of the things that are rarely taught during coaching sessions and at other times are Sportsmanship and Lane Etiquette. So often a new bowler unknowingly breaks these rules, or so called “gentleman’s agreements”. These new bowlers then receive a crash course in lesson courtesy of the experienced, but very irate bowler. It is usually in the form of a slammed ball on the ball return, or a not so kind explanation. These things aren’t covered specifically in the rule book.

  First of all, if the lane on either side of you has someone on the approach, allow them to deliver the ball and to return to the settee area before preparing to execute your delivery. If you and a bowler are ready to bowl at the same time, allow the bowler that is to the right to go first. After you throw the ball and it is a less than pleasing result, remarks and gestures on the approach are not acceptable, especially those of the obscene kind. The pins and ball don’t understand it, and the other bowlers usually view that conduct as being idiotic.

  If you use rosin, hand conditioners, or other powders, you need to be aware that all excess must be removed from the surface of the ball, according to rule. But, it doesn’t end there. You should also be conscious of the excess residues that end up on the ball return, and on the floor. If you use powders on your shoes, that excess should also be removed from the shoes, because it could leave residue on the floors and approaches, causing a hazard for the other bowlers. Above all, some bowlers find an obscure spot to put it on the floor and tap their shoe it. This creates a bigger hazard for the other bowlers and should not be done. This is also against house policy in many centers and against the rules.

  There are many other things that could be brought up, and some could be debated till the end of time. Basically, Sportsmanship and Etiquette means to be considerate of others that are bowling with you and even those that will bowl behind you after you are finished. Be ready to bowl when it is your turn. Only keep the ball you are using on the ball rack and the others neatly nearby. Most ball returns only hold 10 balls at one time and in leagues with 5 man teams, well you do the math.

  Those of us that have participated in this sport for some time, should be setting the example for the newcomers. It is our obligation to our sport to teach these things and pass it on to others just as it was to us. If we all follow these simple courtesies it would make this game more fun and enjoyable for everyone involved. After all it is just a game!

Practicing    February 2006

  So often we see people that come out to bowl their three games per week and don’t understand why they can’t improve their average. They think a new ball or new pair of shoes is the “magic pill”. It is almost impossible to improve at anything if you aren’t willing to practice. The biggest problem we see with those people who do practice is they worry about their scores during this time period.

  When you plan to practice, you should have something in particular you plan to work on. It is also a great idea to see if the bowling center you are bowling in has the capability of not turning on your scoring monitors. If this isn’t possible, ask if you can tape a piece of construction paper over the monitor. The point is…….scores don’t matter when you are practicing.

  Perhaps you want to work on making the 10 pin. Just because you have a full rack of pins on the deck doesn’t mean you can’t shoot towards the 10 pin. You could choose to work on your approach, the number of steps you take to the line, the “hinge”, your knee bend, your follow through, slowing down, speeding up, playing different parts of the lane and on and on.

  Working with a seasoned professional that has been trained to be a coach is always a good idea. Sometimes just a lesson or two is all it takes to help get your game back on track and improve your average by 5 or 10 pins. A good coach will also teach you how to practice. An extra hour per week will work wonders for your game if you actually have a game plan for the practice time.

Dont forget the spare    Dec 2005 / Jan 2006

  Targeting is as much about consistency as it is about accuracy, and it is all about communications.

  If you truly want to improve your average, become a better spare shooter. While everyone wants to perfect their game and throw a lot of strikes, it is often the spare that can make the difference in a win or loss. This has been the case several times on the PBA Tour in recent weeks.

  The spare shot is just as important as the strike shot. Many bowlers take the spare for granted and rarely practice spares. You should roll your spare shot with confidence and not lose focus.

  Beginning and intermediate bowlers should use their strike ball release at all spares to help be more consistent. With multi-pin spares, the ball needs some entry angle to keep from deflecting and missing the back pin in the grouping..

  When practicing, shoot all your spares to simulate league or tournament competition. To keep your focus sharp, use visualization and see the path you want the ball to follow. Draw an imaginary line from your bowling arm to the pin you want to hit..

  Charting your strike percentage and spare percentage will allow you to identify areas to practice on.

Get Your Game on Target – part 2 of 2    October 2005

  Targeting is as much about consistency as it is about accuracy, and it is all about communications.

  Starting in the same place every shot for one bowler means lining up with a dot or board using the inside edge of your slide shoe. Another bowler may use the center of the shoe toe or even the other foot altogether. The difference may mean one, two or even more boards. Any system will work fine as long as you are consistent. If you are trying to line up with a fellow bowler who is utilizing a different system than you are, you need to know what that person is doing, or you could be way off.

  Drifting is another issue that can impact your target. If you have a tendency to walk slightly to the left or right, you probably can’t stand in exactly the same place as a team mate. Or perhaps it is your team mate that drifts and you walk straight. Either factor can greatly distort the reality of lining up in the same place as someone else.

  Through digital computer technology, such as the Bowlers Map system (offered by Bowling Solutions), it is a proven fact that most bowlers miss the target they thought they hit by one, two or even three boards on every single shot.

  Consistent ball speed and lay-down point are as important as accuracy in targeting. If you want to slow down your ball speed to get it into an earlier roll, selecting a target closer to the foul line can be a helpful trick. On the flip side, if you want more speed and the ball to rev up later, find a target farther down the lane, which will get you to extend through the shot

Get Your Game on Target – part 1 of 2    September 2005
(part 2 will be featured in October)

  The headpin is 60 feet from the foul line and bowlers attempt to roll a ball into a strike pocket just to the side of the headpin. This task requires extreme accuracy, but bowlers can enjoy the added benefit of markers placed strategically on the lane between the foul line and the pins. The series of arrows, dots and “dark boards” are valuable targeting aids in improving accuracy. The theory being that a target closer to your release point is much easier to hit than a target 60 feet away.

  One of the most basic skills required for all bowlers is to develop consistency in a simple, easy-to-repeat targeting system. Such a system involved selecting a specific place to stand on the approach, drawing an imaginary line from the pin you’re trying to hit to your bowling shoulder, and selecting a target on the lane you need to roll the ball over in order to hit the intended pin.

  Three sets of locator dots exist on every approach. One set is located just inches behind the foul line. The next set is roughly 10 feet behind the foul line and the third set is usually near the back of the approach. In each set of dots, the center dot is larger than the rest. Each dot is spaced five boards (5 inches) apart.

  The importance of these dots is that you can – and should – use them to position yourself in a precise location (one you are lined up) for each strike or spare shot. You also can – and should – use each row to precisely position your starting distance from the foul line for each shot. Setting your feet the same distance from the foul line, shot after shot, helps control the length of the ball.

  Two standard types of targeting markers appear on virtually all lanes. First is a set of 10 dots positioned 6 to 8 feet beyond the foul line. Shorter bowlers, or those who like to lay the ball down near the foul line, may prefer the dots. For others, using the dots as targets has a tendency to shorten the arm swing and follow-through.

  Next is a set of seven arrows, positioned 12 to 16 feet from the foul lines. For most bowlers, the arrows are the most natural and most comfortable choice. They are easy to see and help most bowlers reach out with a properly extended follow-through. Watching your ball roll over your intended target is the ideal technique to develop good concentration.

  Some newer synthetic lanes use four “dark boards” – two on each side of the lane – about two-thirds of the way down the lanes, much closer to the pins. Bowlers who throw a big hook are more likely to use the “dark boards” on newer synthetic lanes because those targets promote getting the ball farther down the lane. On natural wood, you can use splice joints or changes in wood color the same longer-range targeting purpose.

If you are new to “target bowling”, try this:
   • If you are a right-handed bowler, position yourself on the approach, with your left foot on the center dot in the center row.
   • Try to roll your strike ball over the second arrow from the right
   • If you hit the second arrow, but your ball misses the headpin to the right, try again – this time moving your left foot five boards farther right on the approach.
   • Depending upon where this shot winds up, you can find-tune a strike shot by using simple math. Move your starting position on the approach one board to the left or to the right until you can consistently hit the pocket.

  The same concept applies to targeting for spares. The general rule of thumb for spares is moving 3, 6 or 9 boards to the left or right while still using the same target on the lane as with your strike, depending on the pins left on the lane Example – if you are shooting at the 3 pin, move 3 boards to the left if you are shooting at the 4 pin, move 6 boards to the right

  Keep in mind, that none of the targeting will work if your body is not aligned to a specific focal point down the lane. A good starting focal point would be to center your chest with the 3 – 6 pin pocket.

  A personalized lesson would most definitely benefit most bowlers, as these basics steps could be tailored to your individual needs.

  Stay tuned next month when we discuss drifting, lining up and sharing information with your team mates.

Gearing up for Fall Leagues     August 2005

Bowling balls, bags & shoes have likely been packed in your closet, basement, attic or even in the trunk of your car for the past several months. Now is the perfect time to reclaim these items and get yourself ready to improve those scores.

A little time spent on your game this month can be a wise investment that will pay off during the league and tournament season. This is the perfect time to try new skills, use new equipment and explore new ways to knock down more pins.

Are you looking for a way to pick up more spares? Do you want to develop more consistency in your approach? Do you want to try a new release?

The key to making any positive change in your game is to stick with it. Sometimes when we try something new, we expect instant gratification. Understand that new skills take time to develop and may even be frustrating at times. With practice and determination, your game will improve. Improving your average by ten pins could be as simple as becoming a better spare shooter. It’s not always about the strikes.

Utilizing a certified coach will certainly help you identify problem areas in your game and help you achieve faster results. Were you aware that you have one of the Top 100 Coaches in the World, right at your fingertips? That’s right, Chuck Gardner was elected to this elite list by Bowlers Journal International in July 2005. So take advantage of having access to his experience and knowledge and schedule your first lesson with him right away.

His schedule is extremely hectic, as he travels quite extensively providing coaching clinics all over the United States, Canada & Europe, therefore lesson times are at a minimum. You can check his schedule on the home page or contact Gaylon at 803-324-2255 for further information. Lesson fees are listed on the lesson page

The Dreaded Ten Pin (7 Pin for Lefties)     May 2005

The Ten Pin is not the dreaded situation that most people believe it is. Think of this: There are 10 pins to knock down. If you get 9 on your first ball, that is 90%. In most schools, 90% is usually converted to an "A", or "B" at the worst. Both great grades.

The bowler's primary responsibility is to deliver the 1st ball in the pocket. In most cases, strikes are produced when the ball enters the pocket. This doesn't mean that strikes cannot be achieved on the "Brooklyn" side, or with an off-handed hit. However, it only takes a small change in your release or in your ball speed to have a ball this is in the pocket and you leave a Ten Pin. The more often you hit the pocket, the more chances you have to strike, but you also have more chances of leaving the Ten Pin with the "off delivery". How often have you carried a couple of strikes and then leave a solid Ten Pin? You get upset that it didn't fall......you fuss.....you fume......you cuss.....you throw something.....then you step up and miss the spare !!! In many instances, the rest of the entire game is affected in a negative manner. This is especially not good if it is only the 3rd or 4th frame of the first game.

Keep a positive frame of mind and make the spare. Remember, it is making your spares that will most positively increase your average. Throwing away spares because of a bad attitude will only decrease your scores, which negatively affects your average.

Some helpful hints on converting this spare are:

    1. Stand far left and use the middle arrow as your target. (Opposite for left handers). By using the middle part of the lane, you have a better angle of attack and there is generally more oil in the center of the lane to help the ball go long and straight.

    2. Check your sliding shoe after you have delivered the shot at the pin. You should slide at or toward the channel of the last foul line dot

    3. You may choose to use a ball that doesn't hook as much as your strike ball. Plastic balls are awesome for the Ten Pin.

    4. You may choose to change to a hand position that encourages the ball to roll straighter.

The fear of leaving the dreaded Ten Pin and missing it, directly affects your confidence on the first ball. By practicing your accuracy on making this spare, because no matter what, you ARE going to leave them, you will improve your scores, which in turn improves your average.

Choosing a Coach    April 2005

One of the biggest downfalls to someone that is trying to improve their game is they take advice from too many people. We especially see this with our junior bowlers, as many of the junior coaches have different philosophies and techniques. I'm sure you have all been a victim to the case where you are bowling in league and having an off night or maybe an off month. Sure enough, your team mates, someone on the team you are bowling against, one of the league officers, or maybe even an employee of the center, or a combination of all these people start to tell you what you are doing wrong.

All of these people have some knowledge of the game, but their knowledge is of their game, not yours. If you really want to improve your game make sure you choose your source of information wisely. This person should be able to evaluate many facets of your game, your body motion, the lane conditions, your ball choice, the surface on the ball, the way the ball fits your hand, your ball speed, the area of the lane you are attempting to play and on and on.

Obviously we believe that seeking the assistance of one of our staff members would be the ideal solution. Our staff is trained to observe all aspects of your game. Often you only need a lesson or two to get back on track. If you are looking for continued improvement in your game additional follow-up lessons would certainly be required.

We have access to one of most state-of-the-art bowling tools on the market. The Bowlers Map. A digital computerized program that allows fine tuning to your performance. These computerized lessons are available whenever Chuck is in town. Refer to his schedule on the home page to get an appointment time on the books.

"The Lighter Side of Bowling"    February 2005

Everything I’ve learned in life, I’ve learned from bowling.

1. We all have handicaps

2. Some people are honest in bowling yet cheat in life, but anyone who cheats in bowling, cheats in life.

3. Even though you might not be the best bowler, you can always be the best that you can be.

4. Success and failure are both temporary.

5. Success is a lot more temporary.

6. Although practice does not always make us perfect, no practice always makes us imperfect.

7. No matter how good you are, this is always someone better, and that person will usually find you and tell you.

8. When you are good, you can tell people; but when you are great, they will tell you.

9. Patience is a virtue, slow bowling is not.

10. Don’t touch other people’s equipment.

11. Choose your teammates wisely.

12. Always keep a good grip on things.

13. If you keep trying, you’ll eventually hit something.

14. The best always make it look effortless.

15. It’s sometimes more fun when you don’t keep score.

16. Good form always prevails in the long run.

17. There are different strokes for different folks.

18. You can always improve.

19. Stay out of the gutter.

20. Life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer it gets to the end, the faster it goes.

21. We should be glad God doesn’t give us everything we ask for.

22. Money doesn’t buy talent or class.

23. It’s the little things that count.

24. The Lord didn’t do it all in one day. What makes me think I can?

25. To ignore the facts does not change the facts.

26. The easiest way for me to grow is to surround myself with people smarter than I am.

27. Opportunities are never lost; someone will take the ones you miss.

28. One should keep his words both soft and tender, because tomorrow he may have to eat them.

29. A smile is an inexpensive way to improve your looks.

30. Everyone wants to live on top of the mountain, but all the happiness and growth occurs while your climbing it.

31. The less time we have to work with, the more things we get done.

32. It is best to give advice only when it is requested.

Bowling Ball Care    January 2005

With the cold months upon us, it is important to remind people against leaving their bowling equipment in their vehicles. The extreme weather is not conducive for your bowling balls.

Cold weather causes your bowling balls to become very hard, subjecting them to cracking. In addition to this possibility, hard bowling balls do not perform as well, which will directly affect your scoring ability. .

Most bowling balls manufacturers will NOT warranty bowling equipment that has been subjected to extreme weather conditions.

Cleaning your bowling ball is necessary to keep the surface in the optimum condition. Your bowling ball will absorb the oils from the lane and if you don’t remove it, the oil builds up, causing your ball to hook less and less. We do NOT recommend the automatic ball cleaners available in most bowling centers, because they do not really clean the ball, they apply a wax to the surface, causing the ball to skid longer than it did previously.

There are many ball cleaners available on the market or you can have your pro shop clean the ball for you. We recommend Clean N Dull, a Track product.

Changing the surface of your bowling ball can help you to adapt to different lane conditions. Many of the bowling balls on the market today are made to change their surfaces. By sanding the ball, you will get more hook. By applying polish, you will get less hook.

Remember, the more oil on the lanes, the more surface you need on the ball.

We offer a Ball Care Card in our Shop. Purchase the card for $30 and get 10 cleanings, polishes or surface changes. This is a $20 savings, if you were to buy each service separately for $5 each.

Deal With A Pro    December 2004

It is very important to always get help from a professional on all of your bowling questions and purchases. You certainly don’t want the plumber to wire your house or a dentist to perform your automobile repairs.

One question that I am often asked is “How do I know my Pro Shop guy is a real Pro or just a guy that drills balls?” A dedicated Professional should take an interest in your game and should get all the vitals of your axis point, ball speed, rev rate and axis tilt. These items are on the drilling spec sheets at our shop and are imperative to drill a ball that will give you maximum results. They should be up to date on the latest equipment and drilling techniques.

We see bowlers, who really want to improve, taking advice from the wrong people all the time. Just because someone carries a high average doesn’t mean they can help you. What normally happens is the person is actually taking advice from more than one person and then they get more frustrated when they get conflicting information. A ball that works well for one person may not work for another.

Our staff will take a genuine interest in your game and will be more than willing to watch you throw a few shots before making a recommendation on additional equipment. The last thing we want to do is to sell you a ball that will not fit into your game plan.

Ball drilling is not the only thing your local professional can do for you. He can give you advice on shoes, wrist devices, lessons and just thoughts to help improve your game. Lessons are an awesome gift this holiday season. Gift certificates are available in our shop.

Our entire staff is available for lessons. Lesson fees are posted on this site and in our shop. Make sure you note when Chuck will be back in town to schedule a personalized lesson with him.

Within the next 30 days we will have computerized lessons available. Be sure to get the details on this state-of-the-art Bowlers Map video system. Further details will be posted on this site on the lesson page during the middle of December.

Accessories     November 2004

1. I don’t need those things
2. Those things don’t work
3. They are just designed to make money
4. They are all the same

These are just a few of the common statements we hear about bowling accessories. It is important to that you don’t confuse accessories with gadgets. There are certainly a number of gadgets on the market, but you won’t find any of them in our shop.

Bowling accessories are made for very specific uses. While wrist bands/braces & cleaners/polishes are considered accessories, we are not going to discuss them in this article. These items will be discussed in the future. We are going to address the primary accessories that most bowlers will, and should, utilize at some point.

Easy Slide or Ultra Slide – These products come in small bags and contain a very slick substance. They are normally used on the bottoms of your shoes when the approaches are sticky. Because these products are so slippery, we recommend you start by using a very small amount and increase as necessary. It is NOT recommended to use these products on your hands.

Hand Conditioner – This is a talcum type product containing a small amount of rosin. It is not tacky. This product should be utilized if you are experiencing some stickiness in your ball. Always put hand conditioner on your hand (finger and/or thumb) and not directly in the holes.

Rosin – This is a very sticky and tacky substance and also comes in a small bag. Rosin is primarily used if you are loosing or dropping the ball. Never use this product on your thumb, but on your fingers only. If you believe you are in need of rosin in your thumb hole, utilize bowlers tape instead. If tape doesn’t tighten up the hole enough, perhaps the hole is just too big and you should consult your pro shop operator.

Grip Rite Bags – These products come in all shapes and sizes. The primary purpose is to assist in keeping your hand dry. Most grip rite bags will also provide you with a touch of tackiness. Be sure to see our selection of popular College and Nascar teams, as well as cartoon character grip rite bags.

Bowlers Tape – Every bowler should find it necessary to utilize bowlers tape at some point. As part of our body chemistry our hands swell and shrink based on numerous factors; the weather, your diet, medications, how often you bowl, etc. Because of these factors, it is impossible to have a thumb hole that fits your hand 100% of the time. As your hand shrinks, especially in cooler temperatures, you should place a piece of tape in the thumb hole to give you a snugger fit. You may find that you require 2, 3 or 4 pieces of tape at any given time. This is especially true in women. As your hand starts to swell